Celebrating 50 Years of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
How Gérald Genta's revolutionary design changed the watch industry forever and continues to influence modern watchmaking.

In 1972, Audemars Piguet took an enormous risk by introducing a luxury sports watch in stainless steel at a gold watch price. The Royal Oak, designed by the legendary Gérald Genta, was unlike anything the watch world had seen before.
The Royal Oak's octagonal bezel with eight hexagonal screws, integrated bracelet, and "Tapisserie" dial pattern created a completely new aesthetic. At 39mm, it was considered large for its time. The watch was met with skepticism initially, but it soon became a phenomenon that would reshape the entire luxury watch industry.
What made the Royal Oak revolutionary was its positioning. Before 1972, luxury watches were primarily dress watches in precious metals. The idea of a steel sports watch commanding a premium price was unheard of. Audemars Piguet's gamble paid off, and the Royal Oak became the blueprint for the luxury sports watch category.
Over the past 50 years, the Royal Oak has evolved into an entire collection. From the original "Jumbo" reference 5402 to modern complications like the Royal Oak Offshore, Royal Oak Concept, and various perpetual calendars and chronographs, the design language has remained consistent while pushing boundaries.
The current Royal Oak "Jumbo" Extra-Thin reference 16202 stays true to the original design while incorporating modern improvements. It features the new Caliber 7121 movement, offering 55 hours of power reserve in a case just 8.1mm thick. The watch maintains the original 39mm diameter, making it perfect for those who appreciate the classic proportions.
Special editions and limited releases have become highly collectible. The 50th-anniversary models, including versions in titanium and platinum, have been particularly sought-after. Vintage Royal Oaks, especially early references in good condition, command significant premiums at auction.
The Royal Oak's influence extends far beyond Audemars Piguet. It inspired countless other luxury sports watches and proved that steel could be just as desirable as gold. Today, it remains one of the most iconic and recognizable watch designs ever created.
About Haruko Nakazima
Haruko Nakazima is a watch enthusiast and contributor to our publication, specializing in news and bringing years of experience in the watch industry.