The Cartier Santos: A Modern Icon with Historic Roots
Exploring how Cartier's first men's wristwatch continues to set trends over a century later.
In 1904, Louis Cartier created a wristwatch for his friend, Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont. This wasn't just any watch—it was the first purpose-built wristwatch designed for practical use, making the Santos arguably the most historically significant wristwatch ever created.
The Santos's square case with exposed screws was revolutionary. While pocket watches dominated the era, Cartier recognized that aviators needed to check time while keeping both hands on the controls. The Santos's design made this possible while establishing an aesthetic that remains iconic today.
The modern Santos, relaunched in 2018, stays true to the original while incorporating contemporary features. The QuickSwitch system allows tool-free strap changes, while the SmartLink bracelet enables easy sizing without tools. These innovations make the Santos remarkably user-friendly.
Available in multiple sizes (small, medium, and large), the Santos accommodates various wrist sizes. The medium (39.8mm) has become particularly popular, offering substantial presence without overwhelming smaller wrists. Materials range from steel to gold, with two-tone options providing versatility.
The Santos houses Cartier's in-house 1847 MC movement (in steel models) or the more elaborate 9611 MC (in precious metal versions). Both offer reliable performance and respectable power reserves. The movements are beautifully finished, though hidden behind solid casebacks in most models.
What makes the Santos special is its versatility. It transitions seamlessly from casual to formal settings, equally at home with a t-shirt or a tuxedo. The integrated bracelet design gives it a cohesive, modern look, while the Roman numerals and blue sword hands maintain Cartier's classical elegance.
The Santos has influenced countless other watches, but none capture its unique blend of history, design, and wearability. It's a watch that works for both serious collectors and those buying their first luxury timepiece. At around $7,000 for the steel medium model, it offers excellent value for a watch with such significant heritage.
About Mauricio Pelligrino
Mauricio Pelligrino is a watch enthusiast and contributor to our publication, specializing in history and bringing years of experience in the watch industry.